Flight time
2h 30m
Best season
March–May & October
Budget
Budget to mid-range
Best for
Tapas, flamenco, Moorish architecture, sun
Overview
Why Seville for a city break?
Seville is the soul of Andalusia — a city of orange trees and Moorish palaces, of tapas bars that have barely changed in a century, of flamenco that erupts from basement tablaos at midnight, and of the most extraordinary royal palace still in use in Europe. The Real Alcázar — a Moorish palace built for a Christian king, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that looks more Alhambra than Alhambra — is one of the finest buildings in Spain. The Cathedral, the largest Gothic building in the world, contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
From London it's two and a half hours; direct flights from several UK regional airports. Seville is best in spring (March to May) when the orange trees are in blossom, the Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions fill the streets, and the Feria de Abril (April Fair) turns the city into a week of flamenco dresses and sherry. October is equally beautiful without the festivals. July and August are seriously hot — 40°C+ — and best avoided unless you stay close to air conditioning.
Where to stay & explore
Seville's best neighbourhoods
Santa Cruz (Barrio de Santa Cruz)
The former Jewish quarter — narrow whitewashed lanes, tiled courtyards glimpsed through iron grilles, orange trees everywhere, and some of the most atmospheric streets in Spain. Tourist-heavy but genuinely beautiful.
Triana
Seville's most characterful neighbourhood across the Guadalquivir — the home of flamenco, the ceramics workshops, the best tapas bars in the city and a distinctly local, proud identity. Cross the Isabel II bridge to get here.
El Arenal & the Maestranza
The riverside neighbourhood between the Cathedral and the Triana bridge — the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza (one of the oldest bullrings in Spain), the Torre del Oro and the best riverside walk in Seville.
Things to do
What to see in Seville
1
Real Alcázar
The finest Mudéjar palace in Spain — built by Christian King Pedro I in the 14th century by Moorish craftsmen in the style of the Alhambra. The Salon of the Ambassadors, the gardens, the Patio de las Doncellas and the elaborate geometric tilework are breathtaking. Still a working royal palace (the Spanish royal family use it). Book timed entry online weeks in advance; it sells out consistently.
2
Seville Cathedral & Giralda Tower
The largest Gothic cathedral in the world — built on the site of the city's Great Mosque, incorporating the Giralda minaret (converted to a bell tower) and containing the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Climb the Giralda via its ramp rather than steps (horses were ridden up it) for the finest view of Seville. Book online.
3
Flamenco show
Seville is the home of flamenco — and seeing it performed in an intimate tablao is one of the most powerful live experiences available. The Casa de la Memoria (the most intimate and authentic), the Museo del Baile Flamenco (the most produced) and the Casa de la Guitarra are the best options. Book ahead; small venues fill up. Avoid the tourist shows attached to restaurants.
4
Plaza de España & María Luisa Park
Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition — the Plaza de España's semi-circular colonnade, canal and 48 tiled alcoves representing each Spanish province is one of the most theatrical public spaces in Europe. Star Wars was filmed here. María Luisa Park surrounding it is the finest urban park in southern Spain. Both are free.
Food & drink
Where to eat in Seville
El Rinconcillo
Tapas bar / oldest in Seville
The oldest tapas bar in Seville (established 1670) — the chalk tally on the bar, the jamón ibérico from the hooks above, the espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) and the cold Cruzcampo. The atmosphere has barely changed in three centuries. Order at the bar; the waiters write your tally in chalk on the wood.
Bar Alfalfa
Modern tapas / Santa Cruz
The most consistently excellent modern tapas bar in central Seville — presa ibérica (pork shoulder), prawn croquetas, the tuna tartare. Always packed; arrive at opening (noon) or expect to stand. One of the best tapas experiences in the city.
La Azotea
Creative Sevillian / four locations
The best creative Sevillian cooking in the city — four different locations with slightly different menus, all built around exceptional local ingredients. The slow-cooked pork cheeks and the Iberian secreto are the standards. Book ahead.
Itinerary
3 days in Seville — a suggested itinerary
Day 1
Real Alcázar, the Cathedral, tapas in Triana
Seville Airport is 20 minutes from the centre by bus or taxi. Your Real Alcázar entry is booked for 9.30am — the palace before the tour groups arrive is the finest version of it. The Salon of the Ambassadors and the gardens take at least two hours. Walk the five minutes to the Cathedral: the Giralda climb, Columbus's tomb, the scale of the nave. Lunch in Santa Cruz at El Rinconcillo — the espinacas con garbanzos and the jamón. Afternoon: walk through Santa Cruz's lanes to the Alameda de Hércules (the oldest public promenade in Europe, now full of cafés), then across the Isabel II bridge into Triana. The ceramics shops along Calle San Jacinto, the Mercado de Triana (a beautiful covered market), tapas along the riverside. Dinner in Triana: the riverside terraces on Calle Betis for the view of the Torre del Oro across the river.
Day 2
Plaza de España, flamenco, a night in the Barrio
Hire a bike — Seville is one of the most cycle-friendly cities in Spain. Ride through María Luisa Park to the Plaza de España for the morning light. The park at 9am, with the peacocks and the dew on the tiles, is one of the finest morning walks in Spain. Return through the Barrio de Santa Cruz for breakfast at a neighbourhood café. The afternoon is for the Museo de Bellas Artes (the finest art museum in southern Spain, in a stunning 17th-century convent — largely free) or the Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (an extraordinary baroque building with a Velázquez collection). Flamenco show in the evening at the Casa de la Memoria — book the 7pm or 9pm show weeks ahead.
Day 3
Torre del Oro, river walk, jamón one last time
The Torre del Oro (Golden Tower, 1220 AD) on the riverside opens at 9.30am — the Maritime Museum inside is modest, but the tower is quick to climb and the view over the Guadalquivir bend is the finest of the city from ground level. Walk north along the riverside Paseo de Cristóbal Colón to the Maestranza bullring: the guided tour shows you the ring, the chapel and the infirmary where matadors are treated. Lunch at Bar Alfalfa in Santa Cruz. Final afternoon: the Metropol Parasol (Las Setas de Sevilla) on the Plaza de la Encarnación — an extraordinary undulating wooden structure by Jürgen Mayer, with a rooftop walkway and views. Airport bus from the city centre. Last act: one final copa of dry Manzanilla sherry and a plate of jamón. Seville done properly.
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