Zurich City Break from the UK — Weekend Guide & Itinerary

Overview

Why Zurich for a city break?

Zurich is the most expensive city on this list and the one that most rewards visitors who understand what they're paying for. The Swiss do quality with a precision that is essentially religious — the espresso at the counter of any café, the bread at any bakery, the tram network that runs to the second, the way the lake (the Zürichsee) extends south into a perfect Alpine panorama on clear days. The old town (Altstadt) on both banks of the Limmat river has medieval guild houses, Romanesque churches, the finest art museum in Switzerland and a restaurant and bar scene that has genuinely arrived in the past decade. For those who find it excessive: the lakes, mountains and medieval villages of the surrounding canton are accessible in under an hour.

From London it's under two hours — Swiss, Easyjet and British Airways fly direct from Heathrow, Gatwick and City. Zurich Airport is 12km from the centre (direct train, 10 minutes, CHF 7). Go from May to September for the lake swimming and the outdoor restaurant terraces; December for the finest Christmas market in German-speaking Europe (at the main station — a genuine institution). The Sechseläuten spring festival (April) and Street Parade (August techno festival, one million people) are both worth knowing about.

Where to stay & explore

Zurich's best neighbourhoods

Altstadt (Old Town)

Both banks of the Limmat — Niederdorf on the east, Lindenhügel on the west — with medieval guild houses, Romanesque churches and the most concentrated architecture in Switzerland.

Enge & the Lake

The southern residential neighbourhood along the Zürichsee — the lake swimming areas (Badi), the finest outdoor restaurants and the most beautiful urban waterfront in Switzerland.

Kreis 4 & 5 (Langstrasse)

Zurich's most creative and diverse neighbourhood — the best independent restaurants, clubs, vintage shops and the Zurich West industrial-to-cultural transformation.

Things to do

What to see in Zurich

1

Kunsthaus Zürich

The finest art museum in Switzerland and one of the great European galleries — the extension by David Chipperfield (2021, the largest art museum extension in Swiss history) holds an outstanding collection of Giacometti bronze sculptures (the world's largest), Monet, Picasso, Munch's The Scream, German Expressionism and contemporary Swiss art. The original building has excellent 19th-century and early modern holdings. Free on Wednesdays.

2

Lake Zürich swimming (Badi)

Zurich's lakeside Badi (open-air swimming areas) are a civic institution — the Swiss have been swimming in the lake from purpose-built wooden bathing houses since the 19th century. The Strandbad Tiefenbrunnen and Badi Utoquai on the east shore are the finest. The water is clean, the Alps are visible on the southern horizon on clear days, and the swimmerbar culture (drinks at the poolside bar after swimming) is the finest outdoor life in any Swiss city. Open May to September; admission CHF 8.

3

Grossmünster and the Altstadt walk

The twin-towered Romanesque cathedral (12th century) on the east bank of the Limmat is Zurich's defining monument — the Reformation was launched here by Ulrich Zwingli in 1519. Climb the tower (CHF 5) for the finest view of the Altstadt rooftops and the Zürichsee. The Fraumünster across the river has five Chagall stained-glass windows (1970) in the apse that are extraordinary. Walk the Niederdorf quarter on the east bank for medieval lanes, bookshops and the finest independent cafés.

4

Zurich West and the Museum für Gestaltung

The former industrial district west of the Altstadt — Kreis 5 has the most interesting cultural landscape in Zurich: the Puls 5 gasometer converted into a shopping and restaurant complex, the Schiffbau theatre in a former shipbuilding hall, the Viadukt arches of the railway line converted into boutiques and a covered market. The Museum für Gestaltung (design museum) in the adjacent Toni-Areal has the finest collection of Swiss graphic design and applied arts. Free on the first Sunday of the month.

Food & drink

Where to eat in Zurich

Restaurant Kronenhalle

Swiss brasserie / Altstadt institution

Zurich's most storied restaurant — Picasso, Stravinsky, James Joyce and Coco Chanel all ate here, and the walls are hung with originals by Miró, Braque and Matisse collected by the founding family. The Wiener Schnitzel, the Berner Platte and the house chocolate mousse are all exemplary. Book well ahead.

Zeughauskeller

Swiss beer hall / Altstadt

A 15th-century arsenal converted into a 500-seat beer hall — the finest Swiss sausages (Cervelat, St Galler Bratwurst, Schüblig), rösti, cheese fondue and the best Zürich Geschnetzeltes (veal in cream and mushroom sauce with rösti) in the old town. No reservations; always busy at lunchtime.

Volkshaus

Modern Swiss / Kreis 4

The most ambitious restaurant in Zurich West — a former workers' meeting hall converted into a restaurant and bar complex with an exceptional seasonal Swiss menu, an outstanding wine list and one of the finest terrace settings in the city. The Sunday brunch is legendary.

Itinerary

3 days in Zurich — a suggested itinerary

Day 1

Altstadt, Grossmünster, Kunsthaus, lakeside evening

Direct train from Zurich Airport to Zurich HB (10 minutes, CHF 7). Walk into the Altstadt — the Grossmünster tower first for the city panorama. Walk the Niederdorf quarter of the east bank. The Fraumünster for the Chagall windows. The Kunsthaus Zürich in the afternoon (allow three hours for the Giacometti sculptures, the Munch, the Chipperfield extension). Walk south along the lake shore for the first Zürichsee view — the Alps on the southern horizon if the weather is clear. Zeughauskeller for dinner in the Altstadt.

Day 2

Lake swimming (in season), Zurich West, Volkshaus

Badi Utoquai at 9am (May to September) — the lake, the Alps in the distance, the wooden bathing house. Walk the lake promenade south to Zürichhorn park. Museum für Gestaltung in Zurich West — the graphic design collection is the finest in Europe. Walk the Viadukt arches. The Puls 5 market for lunch. Schiffbau theatre (check what's on — the programme is consistently excellent). Volkshaus for dinner.

Day 3

Lucerne day trip or Rhine Falls

Lucerne is 50 minutes by direct train (CHF 23 return) — the Chapel Bridge (the most photographed wooden bridge in the world, 14th century), the Lion Monument (what Mark Twain called the most mournful piece of stone in the world), the old town and Mount Pilatus or Rigi by cable car for Alpine views. A full half-day makes it the finest day trip from any Swiss city. Alternatively: Rhine Falls (40 minutes by train to Neuhausen) — the largest waterfall in Europe by volume, extraordinary at close range from the viewing rocks. Return to Zurich for a final espresso standing at a counter (the correct Swiss way) before the airport train.

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